Manila Chinese New Year in the Year of the Rabbit



Probably the best place to join in and feel the revelries of the Chinese Lunar New Year in the Philippines is in Binondo, Manila.  I started my Chinatown trip by first stopping by the monument of Roman Ongpin. Roman Ongpin contributed financially to the Philippine Revolution and the succeeding Filipino-American War.  He was imprisoned twice, first by the Spaniards in 1896 and by the Americans in 1900. He is depicted in the monument holding an envelope, which was presumed to contain money for philanthropic or revolutionary purposes. Not long after and really not very surprising, an impetuous vandal hoping to find some treasure pried open the envelope in Ongpin’s hand  (Ocampo, PDI, 2008).





Binondo Church is formally known as Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. It is named after the first Filipino saint, Lorenzo Ruiz, who was a Tsinoy (half Filipino, half Chinese), martyred for his faith and canonized in 1989. Before embarking on the missionary journey to Japan, Lorenzo Ruiz served as sacristan in Binondo Church in the 17th century (wiki). 

The original structure of the Binondo Church, formerly known as Our Lady of the Most Holy Rosary Parish before it was renamed as the Minor Basilica, was constructed in 1596.  The church was founded by the Dominican friars for the Filipino-Chinese Christians who were converged in the small community across Intramuros.  The church is one of the oldest places of Christian worship in the Philippines.  Though the Church sustained repeated damage through time: earthquakes (1645, 1863, 1880), typhoons and the war – the Church still embodies the baroque style reminiscent of historic Spanish and European character.  The octagonal bell tower and the façade are the only significant remnants of the original structure since it was heavily bombarded during the second world war.  What is striking, though, in the rebuilt interior is the marble and gilded reredos depicting the façade of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome (Alarcon, UST Publishing, 2003).



Binondo is not your typical small Chinese town. Though the name Chinatown has been a commonplace term for chinese districts in different countries, Binondo was and still the center of commerce and trade for all types of businesses run by ethnic Chinese merchants and the oldest outside the Chinese territory. This district was already a hub of Chinese commerce before the first Spanish colonists came in 1521.

Ongpin Street used to be Sacristia. It was named after Roman Ongpin (1847-1912).  Today, the street showcases everything chinese – the food, charms, stores and jewelry.  Ongpin is also the center of the chinese festivities of the lunar new year….thus, a density of four people per square meter came in droves, including me, to celebrate the coming of the lucky rabbit.

Ongpin is lined with stores peddling lucky charms and jewelries. I pounced upon a lucky charms store called dragon enterprises. I had a picture there but it didnt come out right. When you buy a necklace charm, they will bless it using a bronze metal bowl and pestle. Interesting and enchanting.

The Chinese Lunar New Year is the most important of the traditional Chinese holidays. Despite occurring still in wintertime, in China it is known as Spring Festival. The festival begins on the first day of the first month in the traditional Chinese calendar and ends with the Lantern Festival which is on the 15th day. The Chinese New Year's Eve is the night where Chinese families gather for their annual reunion dinner or the "Eve of the Passing Year."

Dragon and lion dances are common during Chinese New Year. It is believed that the loud beats of the drum and the deafening sounds of the cymbals together with the face of the dragon or lion dancing can evict bad or evil spirits. Lion dances are also popular for opening of businesses in Chinatown.

Dragon and lion dancing in the streets are the highlights of the festival.  Lion dancers visits establishments and are welcomed by owners and patrons alike, believing that the dance will drive away bad luck.

The streets are also lined with peddlers of all sorts.  From the balloons that compete with the street lanterns in colorful displays... 

...to the lucky charms in different forms, figures and meanings.  The streets are bursting with color, bustling with activity while my cam gets dizzy deciding where to shoot.

The Chinese New Year is deeply embedded with superstitions and is religiously observed by the Chinese community. Ornaments such as fruits and ampao are a favorite buy and are mainstays of every window of stores and homes. Prosperity lanterns and lucky charms are also everywhere because it welcomes wealth and riches.



Stores of this type are filled to the brim. What to buy...hmmm...



Rice is the main food source for Asians and rice symbolizes assurance that the whole family will have enough supply of food for the whole year.

Dunno really what this is...but its colorful and it flutters!

Pineapple fruits laden with kiat-kiat oranges and red money envelopes are a common sight which could spell luck to anyone who would hang it on their abode. Ginger roots are also common since it is mainly used for cuisine and medicinal purpose. For the Chinese, it is a symbol of health for the New Year.

No wonder the whole street of Ongpin were lined up with these...

I was intrigued by the small pineapples...are they already ripe?

The pineapple is considered auspicious and is believed to  harness and accumulate abundance. Pineapple in Chinese is Ong Lay which means ‘the king is coming’ – symbolizing the abundance which the pineapple fruit brings.

This is a pineapple. Its not a flat durian, not a thick leaf, but a pineapple called a pamaypay. And this is not for hanging. Can it be eaten? dunno. Was almost tempted to buy one just to pry it open and taste it, but my...it was heavy.

The Rabbit is the luckiest sign of the Chinese Zodiac and a marker of longevity. The Rabbit symbolizes mercy, elegance, and likeability. The Rabbit is graceful, soft-spoken, well-mannered and shuns conflict. People born under this sign are said to be very private, who prefers to work behind the scenes rather than lead...uhmm. Im almost like one, but Im a tiger...roarrrrr!

Chimes in gold and red are also popular.  Belief has it that chimes also drive away evil intentions and bad luck by a stroke of its wonderful sound.

Baby quails...hmmm...not sure what they stand for, but they are a local favorite.  Though they appear colorful and are an easy complement in a festive surrounding, these birds were obviously dyed to attract kids...

If i was a chick and was colored pink or blue or bright yellow, will i revel at the thought of growing up colorful? nah! i will feel blessed just to grow old at all...

But the kids obviously love them to bits...

Food, let's talk about food....maybe not. Im not a connossiouer of food.  But chinatown boasts of the most popular and authentic chinese cuisine.   Among snack foods, Eng Bee Tin and Polland are the best. with their ube hopia, tikoy and machang.  A bee line have already formed when i got there making it impossible for me to bring home some goodies for my friends. So there! a plausible excuse. 

That brown, sticky, sweet treat we call tikoy is the most popular food during the Chinese New Year.  In the Philippines its called tikoy and equivalent to the Chinese cake nian gao in other countries.  It is made from sticky or glutinous rice which is ground into flour and then mixed with lard, water and sugar. The color of the tikoy depends on what sugar was used, white sugar produces white tikoy, and then brown sugar makes brown tikoy. Other popular flavors include green pandan and purple ube.  Even non-Chinese Filipinos buy tikoy in boxes during this time of year.  Tikoy slices are dipped in a bowl of beaten eggs and then fried in oil. Again, a long line have already been formed. Looks like everybody wants to get one of these...

A grand celebration to welcome the Year of the Rabbit was held at the Quirino Grandstand in Rizal Park. It was the first time that the Chinese New Year was celebrated outside the Binondo area to share the season with the rest of the Filipino nation.  It was organized as one way of erasing the bitter and shameful memory of the Manila Bus hostage drama that took place not long ago in the same place. ‘Twas a noble idea and a beautiful sharing of the Chinese culture in the country.

Organizations such as the Federation of Filipino Chinese Chamber of Commerce and Industries Inc., Chinese Filipino Business Club Inc., Federation of Filipino Chinese Alumni Associations Inc., and the Association of Chinese Filipino Schools in the Philippines co-organized the concert.

Kids from diffrent chinese schools ruled the stage.  Like this Lotus dance....

...and the famous dragon dance.

Well, its dark you know...and I'm at the back. I've already kicked myself for not bringing my telephoto lens and tripod. But then again it may still come out like this...anyway...

Even outside the perimeter fence...a great number of people viewed the concert at the back.  All sorts of people in varying ages and walk of life, they come to enjoy the show.  Sitting on the grass, lying or playing around...this is Rizal Park after all. 

People scattered in the park as far as Roxas Boulevard.  Screens were propped in strategic places for viewers to see the show.  They waited till the fireworks which traditionally usher in the Lunar New Year.  Welcome Rabbit!

The day itself, February 3, was celebrated with more lion and dragon dance not only in Binondo, but throughout the metropolis...mostly concentrating in malls and parks.  I chanced upon this act at Ocean Park Manila.

They were really good, but surprising to see that the lion dancers were kids...

The Lion is a traditional dance in Chinese culture where performers mimic a lion's movements and the dancers donned in colorful lion costumes. The lion dance is often mistaken as a dragon dance. The difference, aside from it being a lion instead of a dragon, is that a lion is operated by two people, while a dragon needs many people (wiki).  



It is believed that the longer the dragon, the more luck it will bring to the community. This 2011, the country witnessed the longest dragon dance in the country paraded in Binondo on Chinese New Year’s Day. It's not this one though, i missed it.



In a lion dance, the performers' faces are covered while in a dragon dance, the performers can be seen since the dragon is held upon poles. Basic lion dance fundamental movements can be found in most Chinese marital arts (wiki).  In the dragon dance, a team of dancers carry the image of dragon on poles. The lead dancers lift, dip, thrust, and sweep the head sometimes displaying animated features controlled by one dancer. The dance troop mimics the supposed movements of the dragon winged spirit….wicked and undulating. Traditional drums, cymbals and gongs guides the dragon dancers moves.

Since olden times, the Chinese have shown great belief and respect towards the dragon. The Chinese believed that they are descendents of the dragon, an age old conviction embedded in their customs and traditions. Mysticism surrounds the stories of the dragon which is why they are held in high esteem symbolizing goodness, fertility, vigilance and poise as opposed to Western dragon stories of fear and destruction.

On the other hand, the story of the lion goes that once upon a time a monk had a dream where there were many sorrows and evils plaguing the land. The monk prayed and asked the gods how he could prevent these evils from occurring. The gods told him that a lion would protect them and fight back the evils. The Chinese people had never seen a lion before, but had heard stories that the lion was the king of all the other animals, so the monk combined all the lucky or magical animals he could think of and so made a lion (wiki).

For some lions, a red sash is tied on its horn. It is told that the lion got too arrogant and told the gods that he was more powerful than all of them combined. This caused the gods to get very angry, so as a punishment they chopped off his horn (the source of his power) and told him to fight off a thousand evils without his power. The lion couldn't and people were dying because the lion couldn't protect them from the evils. Guan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy felt bad for him so she tied his horn back on with a red sash (wiki).

Researching the stories behind every charm, dance or ritual...the Chinese New Year seems like an anthology of the Chinese culture at its best. Im glad I made this trip...cant wait for next year.  In the meantime, let's welcome the year of the rabbit.  Kung Hei Fat Choy! everyone...