Tuesday, October 15, 2013

Heritage Lost: Bohol Earthquake 2013

Lives are most important, am still praying that more lives be spared with the still coming aftershocks of today's earthquake in the Visayan region of the Philippines. But let me just rant my sorrow on the treasures potentially lost forever: the 300+ old churches of Bohol; let me grieve for the realization that these treasures can never be rebuilt, can never be the same, to remain as pictures in my hard drive, webpage and never be seen again. My heart bleeds as the news keep streaming. I am still praying for people's safety...but if its not so much of a bother, please include the churches too...
The church of Loboc after the quake (Image on top courtesy of @Tokyodrastic on Twitter).  The Church of San Pedro in Loboc is the second oldest church in Bohol.  The Jesuits rebuilt the church in Loboc after their church was burned down in 1602. Rising from the ashes into a beautiful and bigger church in 1734, it became the second oldest church in Bohol. According to the National Commission on Culture and the Arts (NCCA), it is a pilgrimage site for housing the tomb of the saintly priest Alonso de Humanes. The picture on the bottom is the façade of the church of Loboc I took just last year.
The interior of Loboc Church featuring its magnificent frescoes. With the façade and midsection part of the church toppled down, tell me...how do we save this? if it can be saved at all....
News came that the church in Loon was totally damaged by the quake. The Church of Our Lady of Light in Loon or the Nuetra Señora de la Luz is…or I guess was the biggest church in Bohol.  It was built by the Augustinian Recollects from a chapel to a massive Corinthian coral structure in 1753. I took the picture on the botton last year and I remember being worried. Notice the crack that ran along the side of the left bellfry? Guess it didn’t take long to see it damaged….but this? Levelled to the ground? It’s just plain heartbreaking (photo on top from the tweet of Lail Rara).  

Marvel at the interiors of Loon! The churches of Bohol are known for their unassuming coral stone structures but magnificent interiors, the Sistine-like frescoes will surely give you a neck ache (for making you look too long, too awestruck and overwhelmed). The image on the right shows the long frescoed ceiling and the colorful tiled-floor of the church.  The image on the right I fondly call 'a gathering of saints' in Loon. A different era from Baclayon, a different vision from Loboc....but now gone forever....
When we visited Loay church last year, the church was being cleaned, repainted, redecorated and landscaped. The local community evidently loved their church. The image on top from the tweet of Lail Rara toppled down not just the exterior façade of the newly-painted church, but also the hopes of the community in rebuilding their beloved church to its former glory.  The construction of Loay church or the Santissima Trinidad Parish was completed in 1882. The church, which was built from coral stones, has a belfry built a few meters farther from the main church but no longer functions now.
Loay is my personal favourite. It took me longer to take in the grandeur of the church. Perhaps it was because of its relatively plain façade and small built compared to its cousins the Baclayon and Loboc.  But lo and behold, as you walk through the door...the interior transforms everything around you and bring you back through time...another splendid work of art....but how do we save this now?  The treaures of Loay....the mural ceiling, the old pipe organ...the old Spanish religious influences written all over the church....yes, it was a time machine.
The Baclayon church, the most famous and frequented church in Bohol, sustained damage on its façade and belfry. The image on the bottom was from the tweet of Mr. Raymond Dracaza, the image on top was from my Bohol trip last year.  The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Baclayon is one of the oldest churches in the country and best preserved Jesuit-built church in the region.  It was completed in 1727 together with a convent that housed priceless relics of the past century such as an ivory statue of the crucified Christ, relics of St. Ignatius Loyola, a statue of the Blessed Virgin said to be presented by Queen Catherine of Aragon, and a lot more..
The colors of Baclayon...the altar, the aisle and the walls are awashed by multicolored lights emanating from its stained glass windows and lit up the altar.  
The church of Dauis in Panglao Island is the newest addition into the Bohol family of national treasures.  The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption became an independent parish in 1697 and was founded by Jesuit priests.  According to the NCCA, the church building was a mixture of Byzantine and Romanesque styles and included murals made by Ray Francia and Canuto Avila. The image on top I took last year, while the image on the bottom was from the tweet of Mr. Raymond Dracaza.
The interior of Dauis Church. It lacks the Damaso-like aura of old heritage churches, but its architecture and design equally splendid. The church also featured a well of water at the altar believed to bring on miracles for the believer and the sick. I hope the beautiful interior and well was untouched by the disaster...
I haven't seen the damage the church of Maribojoc sustained during the quake, still waiting for news but looking at its neighbor Loon, my heart is already breaking at the thought. Maribojoc church i also one of my favorites. Apart from the consistent beautifully-frescoed ceiling, Maribojoc features round windows...far from the traditional cornered ones from regular architecture. It's all about contrast - neo-classical in an old church....grand. Now tears are welling up at the thought of it all gone. 
The declaration of a site as a National Cultural Treasure is the highest recognition a country can bestow on its cultural properties. This means that the architecture and contents are priceless to our country's culture, history and arts. Its loss, therefore, is immeasurable...

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